so now the the first part of this trip is almost its time to make some lists.

the best places
belize - caye caukner
nicaragua - lake apoyo
guatamala - antigua
panama - panama city

best country
honduras & panama (equal first)
nicaragua & belize (equal second)

best border crossing
costa rica - panama (that old bridge)
guatamala - honduras (quiet valley in the mountains)

best meal
garlic pawns in omnetepe - nicaragua
the fish in mexico - tulum
the communal effort from all of us at lake apoyo, nica
rice and beans, corozal, belize
chinese taakeaway, san pedro, belize

best guacamole/advocados
mexico - tulum

best beach
mexico - cancun
mexico - tulum
panama - bocas del toro / red frog beach

best hostel
the yellow house (antigua)
luna's castle (panama city)
tina's (caye caukner)
gaudy's backpackers (san jose)

best trips/excusions
pacaya volcano - antigua , guatamala
any one of the diving trips with utila water sports, utila, honduras
hol chan/shark-ray alley, ambergris caye, belize
tikal, guatamala
the blue hole - lighthouse atoll, belize
diving/snorkling/beaching, bocas del toro, panama
copan ruins, honduras

best volcano
pacaya - guatamala
la concepicion - nicaragua
san cristobel - nicaragua

worst nights sleep
wherever it was i stayed in cancun
the sweltering utila watersports affiliated dormroom/sauna
the first night and last nights in grenada

worst boat trip
utila to le cieba hungover at 6am
san jorge to omnetepe with the diesel filled cabin

worst bus ride
san pedro sula to le ceiba.
san pedro sula to telepigua
telipigua to leon

most medioka place
flores - guatamala
cancun - mexico
leon - nicaragua

best capital
panama city (no other cities really in competetion)

best bar
the lazy lizard bar, caye caukner, belize
balabau, utilia, honduras
treetanic, utilia, honduras

best beers
sol (mexico)
salva vida (honduras)
atlas (panama)

best cocktail
frozen margerita at cafe mariposa, utila, honduras
frozen margerita topped up with my vodka supplies, tulum, mexico
the panty ripper, lazy lizard bar, belize

best hammock
mexico - tulum
san pedro - belize

other thoughts:
luna's castle, which is where i am staying now, typing this, is the best hostel i've stayed at by a mile. its good for all the things i think are important - a good place to meet other travellers, good for trips and information, relaxed atmosphere. fantastic location in the old city. (also has fast wifi internet).

i do wonder how many other interesting styles of music i would have been exposed to, in these various backpacker-styled places, if bob marley had never existed, or never recorded anything. i like him, but i think i've heard enough to last a lifetime.

overall, with all these countries: this is a great backpacker circuit. cheap, beautiful, and culturally fascinating. and i dont think it will be domanated by american travellers as much in the future. spanish helps a great deal, and its not a pick up parts of the language especially if you're immersed in it over here. my only regrets are not being able to spend more time in each country, and skipping a couple of countries. i would have preffered to spend a lot more time here, i'd allocate at least three months or so to see things properly, and really get a feel for what is happening

reccomended to anyone.